什么原理加工出來的六方？

76398769

技工lm 發表于 2018-4-18 16:34
! D& r3 x8 T; C* ]* ^你是理解透了！我琢磨透以后自己做了一個，用了兩年了

我是賣這個的所以了解。你是真的厲害！自己搞定了偏擺的問題。其實你可以自己搞個牌子賣這個的哈哈

暗槍士

可以用拉刀在做吧

fatliu1983

學習下

韓寒11

暗槍士 發表于 2018-4-26 08:41
1 u6 _" R; P. Z可以用拉刀在做吧

7 u7 W7 t+ j& \1 b盲孔無法使用拉刀的

gjxg630

學習

CDKEY*

回轉沖削刀具 BROACHING Tool

CDKEY*

****轉貼老外的DIY***A Homemade Rotary Broach(Idea from randyc on the Practical Machinist Forum)
# n6 x: X: [  M[size=-1]Photos and text copyright 2014 by James P. RiserFor an upcoming project I need to have square holes. On the prototype I merely filed a round hole to shape. This will not do for production. I was very pleased to see a thread by randyc on the Practical Machinist Forum. His design for a rotary broach would work for my upcoming needs. This is my build of his design.
2 J% f5 ^+ M& Q3 \- X2 E The machined parts for the rotary broaching tool are shown here. This is standard machining.
Here is the ball bearing in position between the parts.
/ z* }3 F! O+ R5 x- ZOn the left is the body of the holder with its offset depression. The piece on the right has a matching depression in one end. The other end was drilled and bored to hold the 10mm broaching tool.
A groove is needed in the bearing end of this holder.

The assembled parts are shown here.

The holder was made from available tool steel pieces in my "scrap bin". The body is 1" diameter A-2 with one end turned down to 1/2" and the tool holder is 5/8" diameter W-1. The broach tool is made from 10mm HSS drill blank. This came in a 5" length and needed to be cut in half.
As with the original described on the Practical Machinist Forum, the 4 set screws merely keep the holder from falling apart. The set screws extend into the groove turned into the holder but do not clamp down on the holder. Wheel bearing grease lubes the ball bearing. (See full description of the construction in the thread by randyc).
: u- A' I1 F8 H/ Z, QThe drill blank was ground to the required shape on my old Gorton 375 grinder. The angle on the grinder was set to 2 degrees for clearance on the cutter as it broached the square hole. My plan was to have the tool angle greater than the usual 1 degree angle usually utilized on such tooling. I figured this would give me the "action" I desired.
+ B, M- r6 d6 o* {8 W# d1 s9 p
+ S( j# ~& e( w; Y- I0 Z# KThe grinding - start to finish (the brass is a bushing I made to hold 10mm rod in a 1/2" collet):

! I# }% o! f1 A- f: ]! w
& ~5 I8 V+ s3 ], e- MThe depth of the grind was controlled so that all four faces of the cutter matched.
: s9 v1 H) g7 v2 I8 s
5 Q2 D; w7 B, K8 w( q
I decided to try something new on the end or tip grind. Most sources suggest a concave end, randyc indicated that a flat grind will remain sharp longer than concave. I adjusted the tool to be centered on the grinding wheel to grind a curved tip. The theory being that it would be a compromise between a concave and flat grind with all 4 corners being sharp. The approach angle was set to 0 degrees for this grind.
1 j. R, }6 E( C% Z* P0 s* ?
, l8 l% V8 n3 Q; H5 h* w7 b7 XThe final tip grind matches the curvature of the grinding wheel.
5 U# y1 N7 u+ X4 uA close up of the cutting tip:
1 r( \/ a& c/ N0 b
The whole project was now ready for testing on a scrap piece of aluminum. The test was done on my old drill press at slowest speed.

4 d9 r5 \; m6 U


8 }0 {3 ~, O" y
Notice the three holes. The one at the bottom is just a 1/4" hole.
' u. y9 Q5 Y* m* fA countersink was used on the other two holes.
0 j, t: J' D2 L" ^; fThe tool tip was pressed into the countersunk depression to center it then the drill press turned on.
The tool quietly broached its way through the aluminum as hoped.
( \2 o6 }7 S5 ^* n+ c: }
/ O# R' x( F, o; u2 t


- n" J0 Y/ a& v# I' B


: U9 [. P  Z" J" _' T1 M5 R3 C0 d
Here is the result of my first trial - it worked beautifully!
3 b" w. U8 r! r/ G
$ a* f' P4 R6 Z4 B9 F' p

5 T' Z; T0 l' L

CDKEY*

***網上找來的圖***

9 Q, [) u4 o4 M$ Y0 g# C8 R& a

fatliu1983

樓主這是什么廠家的刀具？

勇哥ll

我們是孔鉆了之后沖床打的